Author Topic: plastic coolant pipes/junctions  (Read 653 times)

Turd Ferguson

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plastic coolant pipes/junctions
« on: July 03, 2014, 01:27:24 PM »
My friend and I are starting to try and put together a little side business. It all started with him wanting me to build a brass offset t for the upper coolant hoses on his land rover. The plastic one had failed and the previous owner built some monstrosity out of pipe fittings and whatever. We are looking for input on other common problem plastic coolant pipes/junctions that we might be able to improve. So if anyone has any suggestions we would like to look into it. We're looking into some piece off a Subaru now too.

Kalgorn

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Re: plastic coolant pipes/junctions
« Reply #1 on: July 03, 2014, 03:48:47 PM »
Look at the Lincoln LS community. Holy fuck do they have a serious issue with plastic cooling parts. There's a plastic elbow under the throttle body that is a major pain in the ass to and it commonly gets brittle from the heat and develops a leak. I had it replace it when I had my LS. There's also a few other plastic Ts and junctions that easily fail over time.

I don't know if the elbow is something feasible to make a metal replacement, but the other stuff would be really helpful as well.

The elbow is #23 in the first image and part #9N499 in the second. You can also see the other junctions in these pictures.




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Turd Ferguson

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Re: plastic coolant pipes/junctions
« Reply #2 on: July 03, 2014, 05:59:25 PM »
Yeah it's hard to tell from those diagrams,but that main one you're talking about is probably a no go. But some of those other ones are possibility. Would have to get our hands on some of those and go from there. We're still trying to figure out if we can make this work. Still trying to get materials and some of the tools etc. So far over night last night after my friend posted the two pieces I built for his land rover he  got flooded with emails from people wanting them. We haven't even got the whole plan yet and we have sixty some people wanting to place an order. So once we get it figured out we will be trying others.

Kalgorn

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Re: plastic coolant pipes/junctions
« Reply #3 on: July 03, 2014, 08:50:24 PM »
I figured the elbow might not be an option but the others would be really useful.

I would just toss a thread on Lincoln vs Cadillac and see what people say. There's a few really smart guys on that site. Someone probably has some ideas and even some parts lying around.

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Turd Ferguson

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Re: plastic coolant pipes/junctions
« Reply #4 on: July 03, 2014, 10:55:52 PM »
Cool thanks. I guess I'll have to register on a shit ton of forums if we make this work.

MiniVanMan

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Re: plastic coolant pipes/junctions
« Reply #5 on: July 04, 2014, 09:48:18 AM »
GM 3.8's are known for the coolant pipes breaking. Sometimes they break on their own, but they will almost certainly break if you have to pull the crap off the front of the motor for any reason. They're just 90* elbows.

87Warrior

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Re: plastic coolant pipes/junctions
« Reply #6 on: July 04, 2014, 10:12:42 AM »
The Duramax radiator hose fitting. My father has replaced his hoses 3 times due to the fitting starting to weep.
« Last Edit: July 04, 2014, 10:15:00 AM by 87Warrior »

Turd Ferguson

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Re: plastic coolant pipes/junctions
« Reply #7 on: July 04, 2014, 09:59:58 PM »
GM 3.8's are known for the coolant pipes breaking. Sometimes they break on their own, but they will almost certainly break if you have to pull the crap off the front of the motor for any reason. They're just 90* elbows.

Just 90 degrees with a lip on each end for the clamp to hold? Like 1 1/2 inch or so? If so it sounds like one we could do. Have to look into that one.

Turd Ferguson

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Re: plastic coolant pipes/junctions
« Reply #8 on: July 04, 2014, 10:09:41 PM »
The Duramax radiator hose fitting. My father has replaced his hoses 3 times due to the fitting starting to weep.

We should look into that as well. My friend's land rover's top hose has a bleed valve built into the hose that is a common leaker. Previous owner Jimmy rigged it and was leaking on my friend. That's how this whole thing started. We cut that section of hose out so those two pieces of hose go  onto a double beaded heavy gauge brass tube with a 1/4 npt brass bung silver soldered in with a brass radiator petcock screwed in to replace the plastic bleed valve.