Author Topic: Ball Joints....  (Read 4704 times)

Scuba

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Ball Joints....
« on: August 20, 2012, 12:57:14 PM »
So I broke my driver side front lower ball joint this weekend.  It's a 94 Mustang, V6...  The good news is I was lucky enough to be in a parking spot backing out when it busted, so not flying down the highway.  That also should mean damage is minimized, no?  AAA was very careful with the tow and didn't do any more damage to it...

Since it's a pretty old car, and obviously not getting any younger, should I have him check all the other ball joints and/or change them out? I'd prefer not to have this happen again...  I'm thinking if one blew, the other ones probably will shortly, no?  What do you think the cost impact will be?

Thanks guys!

87Warrior

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Re: Ball Joints....
« Reply #1 on: August 20, 2012, 01:49:48 PM »
In my opinion, ball joints are like brakes, they should all be replaced at the same time.

Scuba

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Re: Ball Joints....
« Reply #2 on: August 20, 2012, 02:23:53 PM »
That's what I was thinking, I wonder how much it's gonna cost me...

MiniVanMan

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Re: Ball Joints....
« Reply #3 on: August 20, 2012, 07:05:18 PM »
Yeah i agree with 87. Same with tie rod ends and suspension parts.

Onyx Dragon

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Re: Ball Joints....
« Reply #4 on: August 21, 2012, 09:40:39 AM »
In my opinion, ball joints are like brakes, they should all be replaced at the same time.

Agreed.  I had all four done on my Jeep.  It ended up costing me $1100 since I had to take it to a specialty shop to install the aftermarket ball joints and because the others were pretty much welded in there with age, but in the long run, it'll be cheaper since they won't have to charge you labor four times to do a ball joint each time.

Southern_Pride

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Re: Ball Joints....
« Reply #5 on: August 21, 2012, 08:52:22 PM »
That car only has 2 balljoints. I bet you can get both for less than 100 bux.

ling427ttvette

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Re: Ball Joints....
« Reply #6 on: August 22, 2012, 01:38:43 PM »
Was about to say what Southern said, you should only have two ball joints. Yes, get them both replaced and they will have to re-align it, so when they do that they should check your tie rods to make sure they are still tight. Yours shouldn't be to much of a cost, they are fairly easy to replace IIRC.

Gremlin

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Re: Ball Joints....
« Reply #7 on: August 25, 2012, 12:48:42 AM »
Where is this Mustang? Whatever you do DO NOT take it to Les Schwab unless you like spending more money than you need.

Joshua

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Re: Ball Joints....
« Reply #8 on: August 28, 2012, 09:44:39 PM »
You will need to replace the lower control arm assemblies. Those cars use stamped steel control arms, and will egg out the balljoint hole if you try to press new ones in. Loose balljoint = bad. The upside is that you'll be replacing the control arm bushings at the same time, as those are part of that assembly as well.
...and either quite drinking or quite posting because you're going into some sort of weird AMERICA 1776 FUCK YEAH mode.

Southern_Pride

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Re: Ball Joints....
« Reply #9 on: August 29, 2012, 05:46:48 PM »
You will need to replace the lower control arm assemblies. Those cars use stamped steel control arms, and will egg out the balljoint hole if you try to press new ones in. Loose balljoint = bad. The upside is that you'll be replacing the control arm bushings at the same time, as those are part of that assembly as well.

They only do that if you change them like 5 times. I've only seen one vehicle ever do that.

Joshua

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Re: Ball Joints....
« Reply #10 on: August 30, 2012, 01:38:18 AM »
They only do that if you change them like 5 times. I've only seen one vehicle ever do that.

Welcome to the rustbelt, where they do that every time. Rust never sleeps, and balljoints get seized in place so bad that a shop press or balljoint press deforms the stamped steel control arm before the balljoint gives way.

I sell balljoint jobs as A arm jobs whenever possible due to this issue. Big nasty truck? Balljoint. Little Honda? A arm. CYA kinda thing. I hate comebacks.
...and either quite drinking or quite posting because you're going into some sort of weird AMERICA 1776 FUCK YEAH mode.

Scuba

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Re: Ball Joints....
« Reply #11 on: September 06, 2012, 04:27:10 PM »
Where is this Mustang? Whatever you do DO NOT take it to Les Schwab unless you like spending more money than you need.
I was downtown, went to Stingray Auto.  They were good to me before, and good to me this time.  The car rides much better now and doesnt squeak like it did before.  I only had him change the driver side ball joint, I have just recently gone into "spend no money" mode and am saving hardcore to pay off my few small credit cards and save up for a down payment on something new.

Know anybody around here that might be interested in a fixerupper in a few months?

Gremlin

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Re: Ball Joints....
« Reply #12 on: September 14, 2012, 05:29:41 PM »
I was downtown, went to Stingray Auto.  They were good to me before, and good to me this time.  The car rides much better now and doesnt squeak like it did before.  I only had him change the driver side ball joint, I have just recently gone into "spend no money" mode and am saving hardcore to pay off my few small credit cards and save up for a down payment on something new.

Know anybody around here that might be interested in a fixerupper in a few months?
That was not the best of ideas, even a cheapskate like me would have replaced both ball joints. However its your car and your money. I have a neighbor who races in SCCA and is looking for a Mustang "body". He does not pay much for cars. I would think about using it as a trade in on the new car. In Washington state you will not pay sales tax on value the dealership gives on the trade. If the dealership gives $3000 for the Mustang on trade for the new car, you do not pay sales that $3000 saving you $300. Sales tax in Washington is 10%. In reality you are getting $3300 for the Mustang. Sometimes it makes more sense to trade in (wholesale it) to a dealership than to try to sell it on Craigslist.
« Last Edit: September 14, 2012, 05:30:31 PM by Gremlin »

Scuba

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Re: Ball Joints....
« Reply #13 on: September 18, 2012, 07:01:53 PM »
That was not the best of ideas, even a cheapskate like me would have replaced both ball joints. However its your car and your money. I have a neighbor who races in SCCA and is looking for a Mustang "body". He does not pay much for cars. I would think about using it as a trade in on the new car. In Washington state you will not pay sales tax on value the dealership gives on the trade. If the dealership gives $3000 for the Mustang on trade for the new car, you do not pay sales that $3000 saving you $300. Sales tax in Washington is 10%. In reality you are getting $3300 for the Mustang. Sometimes it makes more sense to trade in (wholesale it) to a dealership than to try to sell it on Craigslist.

I just don't know what the dealership would offer me for this car. It's been in great shape until recently.  The black paint on the front is peeling so bad you can see the red (dunno if thats primer or the bumper is made from red plastic) and its bad.  The odometer doesn't work, etc etc.  It's just gone severely downhill in the last 6-8 months.  I'm just gonna do my calculations and savings for the new car based on a $0 trade in value for this car and anything they give me will only help...

Kalgorn

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Re: Ball Joints....
« Reply #14 on: September 18, 2012, 07:11:33 PM »
Typically, they'll give you $500 and they throw it at an auction.

2002 Silverado | 1995 Talon TSi AWD | 1989 Prelude Si 4WS

Gremlin

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Re: Ball Joints....
« Reply #15 on: September 23, 2012, 12:33:46 AM »
I just don't know what the dealership would offer me for this car. It's been in great shape until recently.  The black paint on the front is peeling so bad you can see the red (dunno if thats primer or the bumper is made from red plastic) and its bad.  The odometer doesn't work, etc etc.  It's just gone severely downhill in the last 6-8 months.  I'm just gonna do my calculations and savings for the new car based on a $0 trade in value for this car and anything they give me will only help...
The bumper cover may have been replaced sometime before you owned the car. Since the car is black, go to the local auto supply store and get some rattle can plastic bumper paint. Do the best job painting the bumper you can before you go shopping for a new car. Shut up about the odometer and give the car a good cleaning.  Its a Mustang make it look half decent and you should get at least $1000 trade in credit for it.

When you in negotiation with the dealership, only talk about the price of the new car. Let the dealership give you an offer on the Mustang trade. I would buy from the Ford dealerships in Seattle, Kirkland, Lynnwood and Everett. The big volume dealership in Renton is pressure cooker. The dealer in Everett is the most user friendly, but the others are large volume dealerships so they may give a better price.

Shop around find the car you want, follow the internet and print ads

The new car dealership will most likely just wholesale it to one of those "Buy Here Pay Here" you see all over Highway 99
« Last Edit: September 23, 2012, 12:35:32 AM by Gremlin »

Scuba

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Re: Ball Joints....
« Reply #16 on: September 28, 2012, 03:49:34 PM »
The bumper cover may have been replaced sometime before you owned the car. Since the car is black, go to the local auto supply store and get some rattle can plastic bumper paint. Do the best job painting the bumper you can before you go shopping for a new car. Shut up about the odometer and give the car a good cleaning.  Its a Mustang make it look half decent and you should get at least $1000 trade in credit for it.

When you in negotiation with the dealership, only talk about the price of the new car. Let the dealership give you an offer on the Mustang trade. I would buy from the Ford dealerships in Seattle, Kirkland, Lynnwood and Everett. The big volume dealership in Renton is pressure cooker. The dealer in Everett is the most user friendly, but the others are large volume dealerships so they may give a better price.

Shop around find the car you want, follow the internet and print ads

The new car dealership will most likely just wholesale it to one of those "Buy Here Pay Here" you see all over Highway 99

How do I throw in my A-plan discount into the negotiating mix? Do I negotiate a price down and then slap that in their face, or tell them about it up front?

Gremlin

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Re: Ball Joints....
« Reply #17 on: September 30, 2012, 01:05:17 PM »
How do I throw in my A-plan discount into the negotiating mix? Do I negotiate a price down and then slap that in their face, or tell them about it up front?
I did not know you where on the A-plan. That would be the best way to go, but if your trade in becomes a issue sell it on Craigslist to some ricer.