Author Topic: Rust repair  (Read 2001 times)

GooneyBird

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 937
  • Karma: 12
Rust repair
« on: October 10, 2011, 01:56:46 PM »
My girlfriend bought a car, and like most older cars from coastal regions, it has some rust on it. A few bubbles appear under the paint work, but those aren't the ones that bother me. The one that does is a small rust hole about the size of an LED (You know you're in IT when...) under the rear hatch.

I've seen many ways to repair this, but not one The Ultimate Way to repair this, and I was wondering if you guys can help, having the collective knowledge of many old car restorations here.
'98 Opel Astra 1.6 16V
'08 Kymco Dink 50

Kalgorn

  • Super Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 14090
  • Karma: 28
Re: Rust repair
« Reply #1 on: October 10, 2011, 02:52:05 PM »
I would assume the proper way to repair it is to cut out the bad portion and weld in a new piece of metal.

2002 Silverado | 1995 Talon TSi AWD | 1989 Prelude Si 4WS

87Warrior

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1466
  • Karma: 9
  • Whiskey Tango Foxtrot
Re: Rust repair
« Reply #2 on: October 10, 2011, 10:10:06 PM »
If the rust hole is truly only a few mm across, you may be able to patch it with POR15. Go to www.POR15.com and read through the directions for the POR15. In the directions they explain how to use the paint to fill small rust holes. It basically involves applying tape to the backside of panel, applying the paint and allowing it to dry. Then remove the tape and apply the paint on the backside of the panel. Then finish the surface with bondo and paint.
« Last Edit: October 10, 2011, 11:36:19 PM by 87Warrior »

NovaDK13

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 609
  • Karma: 1
Re: Rust repair
« Reply #3 on: October 10, 2011, 10:51:04 PM »
the bubble spots are prob soft too, like put a screwdriver hole in it if you tried. My honda had a few bubbles from over the winter, got a screwdriver to scrap it off and hit it with paint and eventually opened a hole about the size of a quarter  ::)   I actually did the por trick on my ranger floor turned out good.

GooneyBird

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 937
  • Karma: 12
Re: Rust repair
« Reply #4 on: October 11, 2011, 11:41:25 AM »
I haven't had a chance to poke at it yet to see how large the hole truly is. My girl's found some rust stopper which supposedly turns the rust rock-solid and ready to carry filler and paint, but to me it just seems like it's an open invitation for more trouble in the adjoining metal bits.

I'll see if I can find something like POR15 here. It sounds like it might do the trick on the little hole, assuming that the visible portion really all there is. (Which would surprise me. Even though the car's galvanized I know how rust likes to eat away at things)
'98 Opel Astra 1.6 16V
'08 Kymco Dink 50

87Warrior

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1466
  • Karma: 9
  • Whiskey Tango Foxtrot
Re: Rust repair
« Reply #5 on: October 11, 2011, 04:10:00 PM »
POR15 does list a Germany/Europe distributor on the international section of their website.

Most other rust stopper products use different chemicals and are not compatible with POR. If you use one, stick with it.

RoR

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 306
  • Karma: 0
  • AH AH AH, NOT WITHOUT THE PASSWORD
Re: Rust repair
« Reply #6 on: October 17, 2011, 07:56:03 PM »
That rust converter likely is only made for surface rust. You need to knock off any loose rust or you'll just be wasting your time.

GooneyBird

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 937
  • Karma: 12
Re: Rust repair
« Reply #7 on: November 07, 2011, 05:45:29 PM »
Figured I'd give you guys an update, as we've been working on it for a while now. I bought some rust converter, and it worked a charm. You remove all the loose stuff, apply the rust converter, let it sit overnight, and then it's ready to accept paint, or as a top coat all its own.

The rust hole was actually far more severe than we thought. The LED-sized hole turned out to be roughly the size of a quarter (an American one, FYI), and so I made the decision to cut it out and weld in new metal. Cut it out, ground it back until I saw clean steel, and made a template. I welded on a new piece, bondo'd it so it would blend(ish...) in with with the rest of the panel, paint 'n primer, and it actually looks halfway decent for someone who can weld well enough to make 2 pieces of metal stick together, but only just.

And yes, I removed the battery cables before I did anything. Noob mistake I won't make. :mrgreen:
'98 Opel Astra 1.6 16V
'08 Kymco Dink 50